Capri 18 

Tech Tidbits

by Erik VanRenselaar

Snap shackles:   A Ronstan #6170 (West Marine model 228240) snap shackle was added to the end of the mainsheet's lower block and another to the lower boom vang block on my boat.  Both blocks are Harken 'Little Fiddle Blocks' and they have the swiveling post at the shackle end.  I added the snap shackles to speed up the rigging/unrigging process at the launch ramp.  The snap shackles are available through most sailboat chandlers.  The boom vang and mainsheet upper blocks, with their lines, stay attached to the boom, which is stored in the cabin when not in use.

Downhaul clamcleat:  On my boat,  I replaced the original plastic clamcleat for the boom gooseneck downhaul with a new aluminum Clamcleat.  After installing a new ¼ in. Sta-Set downhaul line, I found that the original cleat would not hold the line securely, and the gooseneck would slide up the mast until the safety knot in the line jammed in the cleat.  A new cleat (Clamcleat # 002111-1  'Junior Aluminum', West Marine model 115725) was installed on the mast using the original screws and hardware.   The new cleat holds the downhaul much more securely now.

Boom bail:  I installed a Schaefer stainless steel boom bail on the aft end of the boom.  The boom bail replaces the stamped eyestrap originally used to attach the mainsheet to the boom.  I got the idea from another C-18 association member, Ernie Percy, who did a similar installation.  After a bit of research, consisting of perusing sailboat hardware catalogs and websites, I found the Schaefer # 90-27 boom bail to be the best size for the application.  The boom bail was ordered through Sailnet.  Prior to installation, I slightly squeezed the sides/ends of the boom bail together in a large vise.  That was done to provide a better fit to the C-18's narrow boom.  A ¼-20 stainless steel bolt and nyloc nut was used to secure the bail to the boom.  A small nylon washer was used between the boom and each bail end to prevent wear on the boom.  The holes in the boom were drilled using a ¼ in. HSS drill bit.  I removed the boom end cap before drilling so that the resulting debris could be removed.  I drilled two separate holes (one on either side) instead of drilling straight through the boom.  This allowed for more accurate placement of the holes.

Transom-mounted traveler: I have abandoned the idea of adding a traveler to my Capri 18.  The complexity of the setup and loss of cockpit room are the main reasons.  I like to be able to swing my tiller up out of the cockpit and bungee it to the backstay while the boat is docked or anchored.  My latest concept is to install another backstay fitting on the port side of the transom and install a short backstay bridle, much like the Capri 22 rig.  The idea is to center the mainsheet attachment point for more consistent sail trimming.  Another boat that uses this method of mainsheet attachment is the Precision 23.  Apparently, the setup works quite well.  I may need to shorten the backstay and have another rigging terminal swaged on the backstay lower end, but that shouldn't be too difficult to accomplish.  To access the underside of the transom's top edge on the port side, I will install a 6 in. diameter Beckson screw-in deckplate (Beckson # DP60-W) in the transom surface in the aft area of the fuel tank locker.  This should also allow good access to the swim ladder attachment hardware when it's time to re-bed those fittings.  An article, with a few photos, regarding this project should be in the next (August 2001) issue of Mainsheet

Flag/burgee halyard: In anticipation of flying a C-18 Nat'l Assn. burgee, I am installing a prototype starboard spreader flag halyard.  The hardware used for this project is: Harken 292 Micro Block, small stainless steel eyestrap (Ronstan #94, West Marine model 120659), shroud-mounted nylon cleat (Wichard #SHR-CCT, West Marine model 165003), two bronze snap hooks, and a length of 3/16 in. nylon line.  The initial installation of the block on the spreader will be done with nylon zip-tie straps, as I'm not entirely sure where the best location for it on the spreader should be.  When I figure that out, the eyestrap will be mounted to the spreader using stainless steel machine screws and drilled and tapped holes in the spreader.  Hopefully, we can have the burgees available in time for summer.